Day 12 – Moskosel to Hede 🏕️
Having spent the night in teepees—an experience not to be repeated on a cold night—it was absolutely freezing! We left in sunshine, but the wind chill was biting, so it was back on with the waterproofs. A wise move, as the day brought heavy showers throughout.
Fuel scare ⛽
We set off along the E45, a faster road mainly lined with trees but still a pleasant ride. Our first challenge came early: the fuel station signposted just 2 km from the campsite didn’t exist! By the time we finally found fuel in Arvidsjaur (just off our route), I was running on zero mileage range and getting twitchy, thinking I’d have to use my 1.5 litres of stove fuel. Luckily, the bike took 19.76 litres into its 20 litre tank—closer than I’d like!
Breakfast stop 🌭
Breakfast was a different kind of cheesy bacon hotdog, served inside the roll. A quick powdery check revealed the 1260 needed an oil top-up, then it was back on the E45 heading south.
Coffee, cake, and closed shops ☕
We rolled into Strömsund for a welcome coffee and cake. While there, we Googled motorbike dealers for brake pads and found one just 1.3 km off our route—only to discover it was not just closed, but shut down completely! We pushed on, riding through alternating sunshine and rain, able to see weather fronts waiting on the horizon.
The 315 gets interesting 🏔️
Turning off onto the 315, the road surface deteriorated but became far more engaging, with sweeping bends and climbs into the mountains. We passed through several deserted ski resorts, a reminder of how remote this region can feel outside the winter season.
Arrival in Hedeviken 🏕️
Eventually, we rolled into Sonfjälls Camping in Hedeviken, found a spot, and set up for the night. Dinner was steak and sausages cooked on the BBQ, with a selection of salads. A couple of beers and rums later, we reminisced over the highs and lows of the trip so far and mapped out the last few days before catching the ferry.
Tomorrow – back to Norway 🇳🇴
The next leg will take us back across the border into Norway for the final stretch of our adventure.
The world on two wheels – Departing July 2026
In July 2026, Steve & Duncan aka The Happy Bikers are setting off on a trip of a lifetime. We are riding around the world. We would love you to follow our journey. The Happy Bikers Global Adventure will be shared on our socials.
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